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The West Virginia Surf Report!

March 26, 2008

Back in the USSA

-- You know how you often go on vacation, or take a trip somewhere, and it feels like you stayed
one day too long? Well, we didn’t have that experience with our London
adventure.

Oh, it was certainly time to come home… But it felt natural and true, like one more day would be too much, and one less wouldn’t be quite enough. We got out of there exactly when we should’ve, and don’t usually synchronize things so well. We accidentally got it right.

We were dreading the flight back, but it wasn’t bad at all. Our shuttle showed up at the hotel as scheduled, we got to Heathrow with time to spare, and there were no issues whatsoever. It was shockingly stress-free.

They were offering eighteen(!) movie choices on the airplane, and I was interested in exactly one of ‘em:
Juno. But that channel – and ONLY that channel – wouldn’t work. I thought about asking one of the sashaying “attendants” about it, but knew nothing would come from such an exercise.

So I read, instead. I finished the last thirty or so pages of one book, took in a lengthy REM interview in Q magazine, then polished off 228 pages (out of 244) of the Mark Everett autobiography.

We were in the air for about seven hours, and except for the time I was eating my “chicken casserole” (not bad at all), and later my “snack” (a box containing grapes, crackers, a shot glass of lemonade, an unrecognizable candy bar that may or may not have been Icelandic, and half a sandwich that smelled like August feet), I had my face pressed into some kind of reading material.

British Airways offers up free beer and wine on their flights, but I had no interest. I’ll give you all the details in the coming days, but I think I got my fill of alcohol for… at least 24 hours. Holy crapknuckles.

We got home last night around 11:30
, all of us feeling like we’d been beaten with a trash bag full of orange juice jars, and the boys free-fell into their beds. Toney and I had a couple of Yuenglings (it was almost the next day) and watched cable news, to see if the world still existed or whatever.

And believe it or not, I have to go back to work today; just one night, then I’m off until Sunday evening... So I’m not going to try to start the epic story of our trip right now. It’s going to take some time to get the pictures organized, and all that jazz.

So I’ll hit you today with a few Quick Differences between England
and America, as I see it, right off the top of my tiny Duke head. And let’s get started, shall we?

Coffee  Ours is good, theirs is bad. The whole time we were in the UK
, we had one cup of bad coffee after another. It was one of those deals where you hope for the best and prepare for the worst. And it always turned out to be the latter, never the former.

It was a curious combination of both strong and tasteless. I know that seems impossible, but it’s true. It was really muddy and thick, like that pressed crap Eninen drink, but it had the general flavor of dirt clods, with mild but distinctive underwear afternotes.

I don’t really like Starbucks, but they were serving up the only drinkable cuppa joe in town. The coffee I drank this morning, here at the Compound, tasted like heaven in a Deadwood mug. I’ve never written fan letters to a corporation before, but Dunkin’ Donuts might be getting one from me shortly.

Beer  Ours is good, theirs is especially good. We visited plenty of pubs, and Toney and I had a lot of “cask ale.”

People often say the Brits drink their beer warm, but that’s not exactly true. The cask ale, or real ale, is kept in wooden barrels in the cellar of the bar, is pumped into a glass (using a literal hand pump), and served at the temperature of the basement – which is usually pretty damn cold.

None of it’s pasteurized, or even finished fermenting for that matter, and is about as fresh as it gets. At first it seemed kinda flat to me, but very, very tasty. After a while, though, I came to appreciate the lack of carbonation, and fizz.

I usually had my first pint in the early afternoon of every day, and kept ‘em coming until bedtime. During the last couple of days, knowing the end was near, I kept ‘em coming a tad too quickly, perhaps. I found myself getting a little queasy when a British Airways flight attendant offered me a can of Heineken. Not a good sign…

I’ll have all the details later, but we must’ve visited upwards of ten pubs (including one where Dickens supposedly drank when he was eleven), and sampled six or eight different cask ales. We kept going back to two in particular: Fuller’s London Pride and Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. Man, that’s some good shit.

Driving  It seems like the British drive like Sunshine cooks: wide-open or off; there are no other settings.

One night, just before dark, I walked to a grocery store near our hotel, and very nearly got my apple peeled by a guy driving a motorcycle like Evel Knievel approaching the ramp. Scared me.

And one day, near Covent Garden
, Toney and the boys crossed a road, and as soon as they got to the middle a black cab came careening around a corner on two wheels, and almost hit the oldest Secret. That also scared me.

So we started getting really nerdy with it, and using the crosswalks and the traffic lights, and all that stuff.

It felt like we were the only ones (jaywalking seems to be the norm), but I didn’t care. Cars and motorcycles and bicyclists seemed to come from every direction, and there was no way to predict any of it.

Not to be overly dramatic, but it felt like every corner was Death Waiting to Happen, in London
. We did a lot of walking, and I also got in a lot of sphinctercize. Holy fuck in a bucket!

Toilets  There are no tanks; where are the tanks? It’s just a bowl sticking out of a wall, with a flush handle mounted above it. There’s also not much water, which can lead to striping and tears.

Well, to be more precise, there’s not much water
before you flush… But after you flush, it’s like freakin’
Niagara Falls. Hit that lever and you’ve got a recreation of the earliest moments of the Jonestown Flood going on, with the added bonus of human waste.

And the urinals (pronounced your-eye-nals) are completely waterless, and shaped like a seashell. Needless to say, the Secrets and I began referring to them as peeshells. No flushing, no water, the pee just somehow
goes away. I don’t really understand advanced urine displacement technology…

Breakfast  Do you like sausages, especially the kind that are white and scary? Well, you’d be in luck in London
. ‘Cause they eat those things like the Russians are in Surrey.

We had breakfast in the hotel restaurant three or four times, and I never fully warmed to it. The scrambled eggs weren’t bad, and the Canadian bacon was OK, but I can’t endorse much beyond that.

Sweet-ass pork ‘n’ beans? For the morning meal? No thanks. Poached eggs with runny yolks are blecch. White sausages are not even an option. And where’s the potatoes? They eat beans, but not potatoes?!

After the first few days we started visiting a really good bakery around the corner, for a cup of their horrible “Americano” coffee and a kick-ass pastry. It was much cheaper, and more enjoyable.

And I’ll get to the rest of the things I’ve got jotted down here, in the next few days. We had a blast, and you guys will be reading all about it (if you'd like) in excruciating detail. It’s good to be back, and the number of comments blows my mind. I’ll have to set aside a full day to read them all…

See ya tomorrow afternoon.



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